Marbled Newt (Triturus marmoratus)

Marbled Newt (Triturus marmoratus)

They are svelte, a large squared head. Their skin is quite smooth. Their limbs are short and robust. Their fingers are short. In the aquatic phase, males have a tall body and tail crests, these two crests are connected at a dip. Females lack a body crest in both phases but have a quite small tail crest. In the terrestrial phase, the crests decline and become unnoticeable. Their skin becomes dry, rough and impervious.

They are marbled green and black; they have an orange colored line along the middle of their back this being more vivid for females. Their head is usually dark speckled with very light irregular spots and lines. The bottom of their flanks is spotted white. Their underbody is light gray speckled with black. In the aquatic phase, males have very tall body and tail crests, this is usually dark in color with light thin vertical bars. The lower part of the tail crest is usually uniform dark brown or black. Their belly is light gray speckled with white. In the terrestrial phase, the specimens become more vivid in color, their underside is light and their flanks may be bluish. Their external gills become reddish.

When young, they are very lightly colored (usually yellow). Their tail is clear with a series of small dark spots; these spots are not found on the body. Their external gills may also be very light.

Location:

Found in northern Portugal, northern Spain and central & western France.

Sexual differences

Females are generally robust and do not develop a body crest in their in the aquatic phase, and their tail crest is shorter then the males. The males’ tail is light in color. The males orange dorsal line is less evident then for the females.

Diet
They feed mainly on invertebrates such as spiders, water insects. They also eat insect larva. The larvas eat water insects, mainly water fleas up to a size of about 11 mm long.

Defensive habits
If they are disturbed they may place their tail perpendicularly and slowly move it from side to side, they also raise their lower body repeatedly.

Reproduction
The breeding season starts just after hibernation when the specimens first enter the water (mid-February to mid-May).

The male will swim in front of a female, arcing his back like a cat, he makes his tail vibrate in the direction of the female. In most cases, the female then allows him to mount her, then he lifts his tail exposing his cloacae. He then moves away and the female follows him. If the female then touches his tail with her head, the male produces a spermatophore which he lays on the bottom of the water. The female moves on top of this, the male comes around perpendicularly to the female and adjusts her position for her to be able to intake the sperm. A female may lay between 200 to 400 eggs per year, these eggs are laid one by one, individually. The eggs are about 1.8 to 2 mm in diameter, laid in individual balls of about 3 to 4 mm in diameter; they are light yellow, sometimes white or light green. They are uniform in color. The egg is encased in a transparent ball.

Sexual maturity, life span
Their average life span is about 9 years, they reach their sexual maturity in about three to four years.

Habits
Marbled newts are active during the night in their terrestrial phase; however they may be seen by day in the breeding season and in rainy conditions. Males are very territorial and defend parts of the ponds bottom where there is no vegetation.

Predators
In their aquatic phase, they are hunted by snakes. The larvas are eaten by insects and their larva.

Tiger Salamander (Ambystoma tigrinum)

Status: Endangered.

Flare: Tiger Salamanders are large, powerful salamanders which can grow up to in length. They are one of the largest land-dwelling salamanders in the world. There are several subspecies of tiger salamanders in North America.

The basic coloration of tiger salamanders is yellow blotches, spots or bars against a black background, although patterns and intensity of color vary between the subspecies. The eyes are small and widely spaced. Light and dark patches cover the long tail and legs, and the belly may be patterned or grey. Thirteen costal grooves (vertical furrows that look like ribs) appear as folds down each side of the body. Two “tubercles” on the bottom of each hind foot help in digging burrows.

Life span: Up to 20 years in captivity.

Size: 15 to 25 centimeters.

Region: Tiger Salamanders are found throughout the U.S., south through Mexico and north into Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba. In B.C., they live in the Okanogan, Lower Similkameen and Boundary areas north to Summerland, west to Keremeos and east to near Christina Lake.

Life: Part of the “mole salamander” family, Tiger Salamanders spend most of their time underground. Terrestrial adults are not often seen outside the breeding season, surfacing only at night or after rains. In summer larvae can be found in shallow lakes and ponds, trying their best to escape the hungry eyes of herons, fish and owls. During winter Tiger Salamanders escape the frost inside underground rodent burrows or rotten logs, while neotenic salamanders remain near the bottom of their ponds, below the ice.

Breeding:
As well, some subspecies have a tendency to exhibit neoteny, breeding in the larval form and never undergoing metamorphosis into the adult terrestrial form, Neotenes can grow much larger than terrestrial adults (over 30 cm). Hachlings are silvery-grey with large tail fins and long, feathery gills. Unlike frog tadpoles with gills tucked inside, hatchlings wear their gills outside their bodies, attached to the sides of their heads.
Tiger Salamanders gather at breeding ponds in early spring. With a lift of his tail, the male lays down a little packet of sperm for the female to pick up with her cloaca. Up to 120 eggs are laid shortly after breeding, attached singly or in small clumps to stones, twigs and plants in shallow water. Hatchlings emerge two to three weeks later and quickly develop into four-legged larvae. Unlike tadpoles, Tiger Salamander larvae develop their front legs first. Larvae stay close to shore where t here are lots of aquatic plants and algae to hide in. After three to four months, larvae transform into juveniles with a new set of lungs and no gills. After a few days or weeks by the pond edge, juveniles set off at night during wet weather to begin their life on land. They return to the pond to breed when they are sexually mature four to five years later. Although they have been known to live for up to 20 years in captivity, Tiger Salamanders probably rarely live more than five or six years in the wild.

Care:
Tiger salamanders are strikingly beautiful salamanders that are quite popular as pets. They can be quite long lived (some estimate as much as 25 years), large, and usually become quite tame although their sensitive skin means that they should not be handled.
When there are lots of larvae but little food in the pond, some salamander larvae can become cannibal morphs. With enlarged mouths and teeth, these morphs are skilled at catching and eating their fellow larvae. Cannibals prefer eating larvae that aren’t related to them, of course - likely telling brothers and sisters apart from strangers using chemoreception (“smelling” their body chemistry).
The scientific name given to this salamander, Ambystoma tigrinum, means “blunt mouth” “like a tiger” referring both to the tiger-like stripes on its body and to the ferocious habit of eating anything that will fit in its mouth. The Tiger Salamander is a sit-and-wait predator that watches for an unlucky critter to wander by, and then gulps it up with its large mouth. Adults and juveniles make lunch of beetles, earthworms, snails and the occasional frog or baby mouse. Larvae and neotenic salamanders feed on small crustaceans, insect larvae, small fish – and the larvae of other salamanders!
Salamander hatchlings are an important food source for fish, aquatic invertebrates, dragonflies and diving beetles. Coyotes, garter snakes and Burrowing Owls also find Tiger Salamanders a satisfying meal.

Iberian Ribbed Newt

Iberian Ribbed Newt

Iberian Ribbed Newt, or the Spanish/Sharp Ribbed Newt (Pleurodeles Waltl), primarily resides in the Iberian Peninsula (in Southwest Europe) and Morocco. These rather well-known newts are commonly kept as pets, regarded very highly for their bold appearance - a cream or yellow belly starkly contrasted against a darker greenish-brown back - and a rather unusual defense mechanism.

Their common names refer to the ability to rotate their ribs within their own bodies and drive them out, creating a series of petrusions that, when combined with the naturally toxic secretions of the newt, establish a very effective (and often lethal) defense against predators. Although it was previously believed the newt had specific spores to aid this process, it has been established that the newt actually pushes the ribs through its flesh when it engages this mechanism in times of distress. However, the newt has a natural immunity to the toxic it creates (as this process would almost certainly prove fatal to the newt otherwise), and a remarkable ability to regenerate tissue - as a result, this response does not appear to be particularly detrimental to the newt. The Ribbed Newt would make a rather unpleasant meal, but has consistently proven to make an excellent pet.

Care:

Mature newts can grow to be quite sizable (noticeably larger than most other types of newt), and one should make sure to give them the appropriate amount of space. Also, in their natural habitat, this variety of newt spends a great deal of time around ponds, ditches, and other slow-moving bodies of water - it is important to factor this into establishing its home. These newts are quite comfortable with a largely aquatic environment, provided they have something to rest upon when they wish. A few reasonably-sized pieces of cork wood should serve this purpose, offering them a pleasant respite from the water. As with many other varieties of newt, water straight from the tap is potentially harmful, so it is recommended to use de-chlorinated water or spring water. It is suggested your newt have some form of filtration for its aquatic environment - an undergravel or power filter should do nicely.

The Ribbed Newt is a carnivore, and will require different varieties of live food as it matures. Their tastes are not particularly exotic, and they share many preferences with other species of newt. Younger ones will prefer smaller prey such as whiteworm and tubiflex, while older (and therefore larger) pets will quite happily dine on slugs and earthworms. They are rather shy, and will occasionally abstain from eating while observed - particularly early on. As the newt becomes more comfortable with its environment, it will generally become bolder. As in many other regards, patience is tremendously valuable in working towards putting your new newt at ease.

If you're considering a newt as a pet, the Ribbed Newt would be an excellent choice. They are interesting, beautiful and remarkably low-maintained creatures. With the proper care and attention, they are quite content in captivity. This having been said, it may be wise to properly secure their environment - the Ribbed Newt has a reputation for escape attempts.

BBC - Earth

National Geographic

Fire Belly Newts - Food Sources

Japanese Fire Belly Newt

Chinese Fire Belly Newt

Fire bellied newts are among the most commonly available amphibians at pet shops. Hardy and relatively easy to care for, they make a good choice for the beginning amphibian keeper.

The Chinese fire bellied newt, Cynops orientalis, is the one most commonly found in pet shops. This newt is sometimes also called the oriental fire bellied newt, and the dwarf fire bellied newt. The other member of this family of newts that has commonly been found in the pet trade is Cynops pyrrhogaster, or the Japanese fire bellied newt. Both of these newts are dark brown to black over most of their body, save the brightly contrasting fiery orange red markings on the belly. In the wild, these markings serve a warning to predators, for fire bellied newts produce some potent skin toxins and have fairly prominent parotid (poison) glands on the sides of their head.

There are some differences in the size and appearance of the two newts. C. Pyrrhogaster (Japanese fire bellied newt) averages about 3.5 to 5 inches (9-12 cm), although there have been reports of them reaching 6 inches (15 cm). This newt has a rough or bumpy appearance to the skin, and generally the pattern of the red/orange coloration on the belly is speckled. C. orientalis is a bit smaller at 3-4 inches (6-10 cm), and the skin appears smoother. The orange pattern on the belly tends to be more blotchy, with orange sometimes the predominant color on the belly. The only real impact of these differences in care is that the larger Japanese fire bellied newt needs a little more room and can handle a bit larger prey.

Housing

In the wild these newts are largely aquatic, but they should be provided with a land area which they can climb out on to rest and bask (the occasional odd fire bellied newt will spend a fair amount of time on land).

For a few newts (3-4), a 20 gallon tank should be sufficient. The land area can be provided by sloping gravel up to one end of the tank, or sectioning off a land area with Plexiglas set in place with aquarium grade silicone. Rocks, moss, and pieces of bark can be used to make a land area with hiding places if desired. However, for the majority of newts, a floating island of wood or rocks (which should be fairly smooth to prevent damaging delicate skin on newt bellies) is sufficient for a land area.

The bottom of the tank can be lined with smooth gravel, which should be large enough that the newts can not swallow it. Provide lots of live plants .

Filtration should be provided, although strong currents are best avoided. Inside corner filters (the kind powered by air) work well, as they create little current. Internal power filters are also a good choice, as long as they are not too powerful and positioned so as to minimize the current produced. Under gravel filters are also a good option.

Fire bellied newts do best at temperatures on the cool side - they tolerate room temperature (70 F/21 C) but will be happier at slightly lower temperatures - 68 F (20 C) or a bit lower are more ideal. At temperatures around 75 F (24 C) or higher, they will be stressed and susceptible to infections, particularly fungal infections.

Approximately 1/3 of the volume of water in the tank should be removed and replaced with fresh, dechlorinated water every 1-2 weeks (depending on the size of the tank and the number of newts - it should be done more often for smaller tanks and larger numbers of newts). A gravel washer is an inexpensive tool available at pet stores that allows the gravel to be gently agitated and cleaned while siphoning off water.

Newts should be kept on a light/dark cycle that is regular. 12 hours light/12 hours dark is probably sufficient if you are providing light, or simply allow them normal daylight in a well lit room - as long as their tank isn't in direct sunlight, Newts do not have any requirement for special UV light fixtures.

Feeding

Depending on your newt, you may have to try a variety of food sources. Bloodworms, frozen or live, seem to a favorite among newt keepers. These (especially the frozen bloodworms) are quite readily available at pet stores. They may also eat earthworms (chopped), brine shrimp, glass shrimp, daphnia, and freeze-dried tubifex cubes. Floating reptile/amphibian sticks such as Repto-Min can also be fed, although many newts refuse them. Larger newts, particularly the larger Japanese fire bellied newt, may also eat feeder guppies if offered.

Feeding every other day or every three days is often enough. It may take a little experimentation to figure out how much and how often they should be fed, but you can try to judge by their growth and body condition (fat or skinny) and whether excess food is being left (which will cause toxins to build up in the tank).

Links

Blue-Spotted Salamander

www.caudata.org
 The salamander and newt information portal. It boasts the Internets largest online community forum for newt and salamander enthusiasts and hosts several related websites such as Caudata Culture and the Cryptobranchid Interest Group.

www.livingunderworld.org
Jessica Miller's beautiful site dedicated to the preservation of wild and captive amphibians with beautiful member photo galleries.

www.axolotl.org
John Clare's authoritative site devoted entirely to axolotls.

GENERAL AMPHIBIANS

www.herp.it
Amphibians and Reptiles of Europe (photo base of European amphibians and reptiles).

www.amphibiaweb.org
Amphibian database run by the University of California, Berkeley. It features species accounts of many amphibians and a huge collection of photos from around the world.

www.californiaherps.com
California Reptiles and Amphibians

www.cnah.org
The Center for North American Herpetology

www.Herplit.com
Resource for herpetological literature.

www.ssarherps.org
Society for the Study of Amphibians and Reptiles -  a not-for-profit organization established to advance research, conservation, and education concerning amphibians and reptiles.

www.gymnophiona.org
Links courtesy of gymnophiona.org (frogs and other general links also hosted there).

Newt Care #2

Great Crested Newt

Bright curious eyes, unblemished skin and inquisitive demeanor are a good sign of a healthy happy Newt.

New additions should be quarantined for two weeks, come from clean uncrowded conditions and obviously be free of; infections, wounds, fungus, sores or tumors on their skin.

(Following are more Newt/Salamander care tips collected via interwebs)

Additional Shelter Notes:

Hallowed out logs, rocks or overhangs are appreciated where newts can sleep or spend a lazy afternoon. Newts are primarily nocturnal, so using ultra violet light is a great way to regulate their lighting.

Water:

For the water you can use tap water, but let it stand for at least 24 hours before you add it to the tank. That is done so the chlorine can escape into the atmosphere. The newts prefer a pH from about 5.8 to 7.8. The water should be changed about twice a week, and if you use a filter less often. A good way to ease the cleaning task is to use ‘air stone’, which will help circulate the water. To clean the aquarium do not use detergents, just clean with warm water and a clean sponge. When changing any water switch a maximum of 30% with clean tap water with an appropriate pH. The screen or cover should be sufficient to let air through such as taught framed mosquito netting.

Handling:

Newts do not like to be handled by us because of the secretion of slats and heat of our hands. He might secrete toxic fluids from his skin to protect himself, wash your hands carefully in warm water and using an anti-bacterial soap if you handle him.

Hibernation:

The water temperature and light exposure of the newt needs to be adjusted since they need to spend time in hibernation. If they don’t hibernate, the life cycle will be shortened and the breeding process will also be more successful if they hibernate. Make sure that the newts look plump with fat storage before you attempt to help them into hibernation. Start gradually cooling the entire aquarium over a period of three weeks. The newt requires a hibernation quarter into which it can burrow. Just use something like moist stand. The temperature should be about five degrees Celsius and let them hibernate about 3 months. After that time, gradually raise the temperature again over a period of three weeks back to room temperature.

Basic Salamander and Newt Care

Red Spotted Newt

Basic Salamander and Newt Care,

(Newts and Salamanders by Frank Indiviglio, Barron's, 1997)

Housing:

Larval salamanders and newts as well as neotonic salamanders (those that remain aquatic throughout their lives) can be kept in aquatic setups without land. Aquariums ranging from 5 to over a 100 gallons can be used depending on the size and quantity of the individual amphibians being kept. The water should be maintained at a temperature proper for that species. A good filtration system is important as are water changes of 20-50% every one to two weeks at least.

Once larval salamanders and newts are nearing the time that they leave the water, an area of land must be provided. Any non-toxic material that floats or acts as a land mass can be used. Gravel, rocks, plastic platforms, etc. can be used.

Adult salamanders and newts (efts) that are non-aquatic should be provided with mostly a land area that is kept moist and relatively dark. Sphagnum moss, logs, etc. can be used in a 5-100+ gallon glass aquarium. The cage should be kept moist. Small water dishes are all that are needed except for breeding. Extremes in temperature and high levels of light should be avoided.

Feeding:

Larval salamanders and newts and neotonic salamanders (those that remain aquatic) can be fed almost any small, live animal that will fit in their mouths. Preferred foods in nature are mostly small aquatic insects, mollusks, and worms. They will also eat the eggs and larvae of fish and amphibians. In captivity, it is easiest to feed brine shrimp (newborns for newborns and adult shrimp for larger larval salamanders) and black worms. Black worms should be cut up (but alive) for babies that are too small to eat the whole worms. Larger animals (mostly neotonic salamanders as they others do not grow large enough) can be introduced to tubifex worms, earthworms, small fish, ghost shrimp, crayfish, and other small animals.

Land salamanders and newts will eat small animals appropriate for their mouth size. Possible choices include earthworms, mealworms, crickets, and other small insects and worms.

Keeping Other Animals with Salamanders and Newts:

It is usually best to keep a single species of salamander or newt without other animals present (aside from foods meant to be eaten by the salamander or newt).