Fire Belly Newts - Food Sources

Japanese Fire Belly Newt

Chinese Fire Belly Newt

Fire bellied newts are among the most commonly available amphibians at pet shops. Hardy and relatively easy to care for, they make a good choice for the beginning amphibian keeper.

The Chinese fire bellied newt, Cynops orientalis, is the one most commonly found in pet shops. This newt is sometimes also called the oriental fire bellied newt, and the dwarf fire bellied newt. The other member of this family of newts that has commonly been found in the pet trade is Cynops pyrrhogaster, or the Japanese fire bellied newt. Both of these newts are dark brown to black over most of their body, save the brightly contrasting fiery orange red markings on the belly. In the wild, these markings serve a warning to predators, for fire bellied newts produce some potent skin toxins and have fairly prominent parotid (poison) glands on the sides of their head.

There are some differences in the size and appearance of the two newts. C. Pyrrhogaster (Japanese fire bellied newt) averages about 3.5 to 5 inches (9-12 cm), although there have been reports of them reaching 6 inches (15 cm). This newt has a rough or bumpy appearance to the skin, and generally the pattern of the red/orange coloration on the belly is speckled. C. orientalis is a bit smaller at 3-4 inches (6-10 cm), and the skin appears smoother. The orange pattern on the belly tends to be more blotchy, with orange sometimes the predominant color on the belly. The only real impact of these differences in care is that the larger Japanese fire bellied newt needs a little more room and can handle a bit larger prey.

Housing

In the wild these newts are largely aquatic, but they should be provided with a land area which they can climb out on to rest and bask (the occasional odd fire bellied newt will spend a fair amount of time on land).

For a few newts (3-4), a 20 gallon tank should be sufficient. The land area can be provided by sloping gravel up to one end of the tank, or sectioning off a land area with Plexiglas set in place with aquarium grade silicone. Rocks, moss, and pieces of bark can be used to make a land area with hiding places if desired. However, for the majority of newts, a floating island of wood or rocks (which should be fairly smooth to prevent damaging delicate skin on newt bellies) is sufficient for a land area.

The bottom of the tank can be lined with smooth gravel, which should be large enough that the newts can not swallow it. Provide lots of live plants .

Filtration should be provided, although strong currents are best avoided. Inside corner filters (the kind powered by air) work well, as they create little current. Internal power filters are also a good choice, as long as they are not too powerful and positioned so as to minimize the current produced. Under gravel filters are also a good option.

Fire bellied newts do best at temperatures on the cool side - they tolerate room temperature (70 F/21 C) but will be happier at slightly lower temperatures - 68 F (20 C) or a bit lower are more ideal. At temperatures around 75 F (24 C) or higher, they will be stressed and susceptible to infections, particularly fungal infections.

Approximately 1/3 of the volume of water in the tank should be removed and replaced with fresh, dechlorinated water every 1-2 weeks (depending on the size of the tank and the number of newts - it should be done more often for smaller tanks and larger numbers of newts). A gravel washer is an inexpensive tool available at pet stores that allows the gravel to be gently agitated and cleaned while siphoning off water.

Newts should be kept on a light/dark cycle that is regular. 12 hours light/12 hours dark is probably sufficient if you are providing light, or simply allow them normal daylight in a well lit room - as long as their tank isn't in direct sunlight, Newts do not have any requirement for special UV light fixtures.

Feeding

Depending on your newt, you may have to try a variety of food sources. Bloodworms, frozen or live, seem to a favorite among newt keepers. These (especially the frozen bloodworms) are quite readily available at pet stores. They may also eat earthworms (chopped), brine shrimp, glass shrimp, daphnia, and freeze-dried tubifex cubes. Floating reptile/amphibian sticks such as Repto-Min can also be fed, although many newts refuse them. Larger newts, particularly the larger Japanese fire bellied newt, may also eat feeder guppies if offered.

Feeding every other day or every three days is often enough. It may take a little experimentation to figure out how much and how often they should be fed, but you can try to judge by their growth and body condition (fat or skinny) and whether excess food is being left (which will cause toxins to build up in the tank).

Links

Blue-Spotted Salamander

www.caudata.org
 The salamander and newt information portal. It boasts the Internets largest online community forum for newt and salamander enthusiasts and hosts several related websites such as Caudata Culture and the Cryptobranchid Interest Group.

www.livingunderworld.org
Jessica Miller's beautiful site dedicated to the preservation of wild and captive amphibians with beautiful member photo galleries.

www.axolotl.org
John Clare's authoritative site devoted entirely to axolotls.

GENERAL AMPHIBIANS

www.herp.it
Amphibians and Reptiles of Europe (photo base of European amphibians and reptiles).

www.amphibiaweb.org
Amphibian database run by the University of California, Berkeley. It features species accounts of many amphibians and a huge collection of photos from around the world.

www.californiaherps.com
California Reptiles and Amphibians

www.cnah.org
The Center for North American Herpetology

www.Herplit.com
Resource for herpetological literature.

www.ssarherps.org
Society for the Study of Amphibians and Reptiles -  a not-for-profit organization established to advance research, conservation, and education concerning amphibians and reptiles.

www.gymnophiona.org
Links courtesy of gymnophiona.org (frogs and other general links also hosted there).

Newt Care #2

Great Crested Newt

Bright curious eyes, unblemished skin and inquisitive demeanor are a good sign of a healthy happy Newt.

New additions should be quarantined for two weeks, come from clean uncrowded conditions and obviously be free of; infections, wounds, fungus, sores or tumors on their skin.

(Following are more Newt/Salamander care tips collected via interwebs)

Additional Shelter Notes:

Hallowed out logs, rocks or overhangs are appreciated where newts can sleep or spend a lazy afternoon. Newts are primarily nocturnal, so using ultra violet light is a great way to regulate their lighting.

Water:

For the water you can use tap water, but let it stand for at least 24 hours before you add it to the tank. That is done so the chlorine can escape into the atmosphere. The newts prefer a pH from about 5.8 to 7.8. The water should be changed about twice a week, and if you use a filter less often. A good way to ease the cleaning task is to use ‘air stone’, which will help circulate the water. To clean the aquarium do not use detergents, just clean with warm water and a clean sponge. When changing any water switch a maximum of 30% with clean tap water with an appropriate pH. The screen or cover should be sufficient to let air through such as taught framed mosquito netting.

Handling:

Newts do not like to be handled by us because of the secretion of slats and heat of our hands. He might secrete toxic fluids from his skin to protect himself, wash your hands carefully in warm water and using an anti-bacterial soap if you handle him.

Hibernation:

The water temperature and light exposure of the newt needs to be adjusted since they need to spend time in hibernation. If they don’t hibernate, the life cycle will be shortened and the breeding process will also be more successful if they hibernate. Make sure that the newts look plump with fat storage before you attempt to help them into hibernation. Start gradually cooling the entire aquarium over a period of three weeks. The newt requires a hibernation quarter into which it can burrow. Just use something like moist stand. The temperature should be about five degrees Celsius and let them hibernate about 3 months. After that time, gradually raise the temperature again over a period of three weeks back to room temperature.

Basic Salamander and Newt Care

Red Spotted Newt

Basic Salamander and Newt Care,

(Newts and Salamanders by Frank Indiviglio, Barron's, 1997)

Housing:

Larval salamanders and newts as well as neotonic salamanders (those that remain aquatic throughout their lives) can be kept in aquatic setups without land. Aquariums ranging from 5 to over a 100 gallons can be used depending on the size and quantity of the individual amphibians being kept. The water should be maintained at a temperature proper for that species. A good filtration system is important as are water changes of 20-50% every one to two weeks at least.

Once larval salamanders and newts are nearing the time that they leave the water, an area of land must be provided. Any non-toxic material that floats or acts as a land mass can be used. Gravel, rocks, plastic platforms, etc. can be used.

Adult salamanders and newts (efts) that are non-aquatic should be provided with mostly a land area that is kept moist and relatively dark. Sphagnum moss, logs, etc. can be used in a 5-100+ gallon glass aquarium. The cage should be kept moist. Small water dishes are all that are needed except for breeding. Extremes in temperature and high levels of light should be avoided.

Feeding:

Larval salamanders and newts and neotonic salamanders (those that remain aquatic) can be fed almost any small, live animal that will fit in their mouths. Preferred foods in nature are mostly small aquatic insects, mollusks, and worms. They will also eat the eggs and larvae of fish and amphibians. In captivity, it is easiest to feed brine shrimp (newborns for newborns and adult shrimp for larger larval salamanders) and black worms. Black worms should be cut up (but alive) for babies that are too small to eat the whole worms. Larger animals (mostly neotonic salamanders as they others do not grow large enough) can be introduced to tubifex worms, earthworms, small fish, ghost shrimp, crayfish, and other small animals.

Land salamanders and newts will eat small animals appropriate for their mouth size. Possible choices include earthworms, mealworms, crickets, and other small insects and worms.

Keeping Other Animals with Salamanders and Newts:

It is usually best to keep a single species of salamander or newt without other animals present (aside from foods meant to be eaten by the salamander or newt).